April 7, 2008 - Schiller's Liquor Bar
Monday night in early April. Tax filing time. Talk of economic recession...falling home prices...a weak dollar. Perhaps a Whole Foods pasta and salad night would be prudent. But, then again, I'm due a refund, the mortgage isn't floating-rate, and I've managed to avoid the latest round of layoffs at the conglomerate. More to the point, I played soccer after work and so after a hot shower, the endorphins have left me feeling quite happy and hungry. I want steak, but other than Sammy's Rumanian on Chrystie Street [with a liquefied chicken-fat bottle on each table and way too much garlic in its seasoning], there are no true steakhouses in the neighborhood. C. mentions that Schiller's has a decent steak frite. That'll work...tonight we head to Schiller's Liquor Bar on Rivington & Norfolk.
On the walk over, I remember why I hated Schiller's the last time we went -- it's too loud in there. The tin ceiling and garage-door windows amplify the sound of everyone trying to talk over music that's piped-in at an annoyingly high volume. It's not that I want a restaurant to be pin drop quiet, but it's a pet peeve of mine when you have to strain to hold a conversation (at least during a Monday night dinner for two).
We arrive around 8 PM and there's a table available right away. It's noisy, but maybe because I'd been preparing myself (and because I'm so hungry), it's actually not too bothersome. The place is otherwise packed -- even all the bar seats are taken. No sign of recession here. Maybe it's all tourists carrying wads of Euros? Next to us are two German-speaking women leafing through a guidebook and photos from the MoMA. The big table on the other side is occupied by five mother-daughter pairs from Spain. Everyone in the restaurant -- foreigners and locals alike -- is dressed smartly and seemingly enjoying the frenetic energy of this place: the "creamy golden center" of the Lower East Side. That last bit of descriptiveness comes from the writer Richard Price, which may also explain why Schiller's is crowded at a relatively early hour. His latest novel, Lush Life, is centered around the new LES, and in particular Cafe Berkmann, a fictionalization of Schiller's (the cover of the book pictures the front of the restaurant).
C. and I are here to eat. We scan the menu quickly. The steak frite (au poivre, béarnaise, or maitre d' butter) is a definite. She points out the rigatoni with sweet sausage and broccoli rabe from the day's specials. Perfect -- it'll be just as hearty as my meat & potatoes. Remembering the healthy start to the evening I had on the soccer field, I suggest sharing the avocado vinaigrette as an appetizer. C. counters with the grilled sardines. We ask our waitress' opinion, but she only offers a lame, "they're both good." I make the executive decision for avocado. We agree on the steak au poivre, cooked medium.
The avocado vinaigrette was disappointing, but only because we'd seen a very tasty-looking Cobb salad pass our table earlier. A lonely avocado lay sliced and fanned on a bare plate next to a small salad of mixed greens. To be fair, the avocado was quite fresh, but there was not much special about the vinaigrette dressing, nor the two leafy bites of greens to accompany it. Things turned much better with the arrival of the entrees. The au poivre sauce was mushroomy, creamy, and not too peppery -- just the way I like it. The steak was charred and tasty, if a little tough, but with a bowl full of sauce in which to dip the meat, as well as the crispy french fries, this is just what I wanted. In order to stop myself from devouring the entire plate, I switch plates with C. and try the rigatoni. Another solid effort. The sweet sausage complements the bitter flavor of the broccoli rabe, which is remarkably tender but not overcooked. On a night when I'm feeling hungry, I particularly like the stick-to-your-ribs heartiness of rigatoni -- it's a "manly" pasta.
For dessert, I suggest another dish we'd seen pass by our table -- the caramelized banana split: three scoops of ice cream -- the old fashioned trio of vanilla, chocolate, and strawberry -- served over a caramelized banana, and topped with whipped cream and a cherry. It's virtually impossible to mess up a banana split, and Schiller's version does not disappoint. Good quality ice cream, and not too many chopped nuts.
Total for two (with one glass of cabernet for C.) was about $80.00, including tip and tax.
--Bobby
March 18, 2008 - Mottsu
A drizzly, windy Tuesday evening. Not an ideal night to venture far from home for dinner. My belt is feeling a bit tight (in the literal sense, notwithstanding the recent fluctuations in the financial markets) -- I've been eating too many bacon, egg & cheese sandwiches for breakfast lately. A sushi restaurant in the neighborhood would be perfect. Raw fish is light and healthy, yet more satisfying than other calorie-conscious alternatives. Plus, C. always suggests sushi for dinner and it's nice for me to be able to pretend that I'm sacrificing for her. Tonight's meal will be at Mottsu -- [Mott St. between Houston and Prince]. As an added bonus, we actually have a coupon from Mottsu that came in the mail -- a two-for-one entree special -- so we get to enforce figurative, fiscal belt tightening as well.
Mottsu is a decent neighborhood sushi place. The space isn't large (ten or so tables and a sushi bar with room for six customers), there's lots of light-colored wood, and the quality of the raw fish is definitely a step above the multitude of Chinese and Korean-run sushi joints in Manhattan. I've developed a dislike for sushi places that are run by non-Japanese people. I can make this claim because (a) I actually have the ability to distinguish various Asian nationalities apart with 90% confidence based upon looks alone (100% if they talk) and (b) as a non-Japanese Asian-American, I can't be accused of discrimination. In my humble opinion, the sushi is generally better in places where the guy slicing your raw fish is Japanese.
At 9:30 PM, Mottsu is busy but not full, so we immediately find a comfortable table for two by the front. The ordering is easy. One sushi special and one sashimi special, which we'll share. After a quick debate about whether to get an appetizer, we each add an a la carte piece of sushi that's not included in the set specials - uni (sea urchin) for me and unagi (eel) for C. The entrees come on large plates, which makes the presentation of sushi much better than when crowded onto the usual wooden board. What makes Mottsu a better then average neighborhood sushi restaurant is the quality of the fish -- flavorful, but not melt-in-your-mouth. The variety of the set entree is also superior -- a garden variety neighborhood sushi bar will offer you two pieces of tuna, two salmon, a yellowtail, one mystery piece, and a California roll, but at Mottsu the set dinner included giant clam, red snapper, fatty tuna, and squid. The pieces were also set upon fresh sliced radish and sesame leaves (which you can eat, but many people think is garnish). We enjoyed the two plates at a leisurely pace, stopping only to sip hot tea occasionally. With sushi and sashimi, I think the most complementary beverages are just plain tea and ice water (but again, I don't drink alcohol).
The final bill for two after the discount was $40.00 (including tip and tax). Without the coupon, it would've been closer to $70.00, so this is a little pricier than the average neighborhood sushi restaurant, but worth it.
--Bobby
March 14, 2008 - Il Buco
First off, I have to say that the food at Il Buco (Bond St between Bowery & Lafayette) was excellent! Paloma and I both ordered the Striped Bass, which was cooked in the oven, wrapped in paper, with just butter and spices. It was light and flavorful, exactly how I like my fish. Personally, I hate it when fish is fried or comes with a heavy sauce. I want to be able to taste the fish; otherwise, what’s the point? Bobby and Herve both got the Steak, which was also really tender and came with a yellow vegetable that took some time to realize that it was beet! Claudia got the Risotto, which I didn’t try but looked delicious.
Secondly, I absolutely recommend getting a table downstairs in the wine cellar. One of my rare dinner experiences where we could hear each other talk without having to shout. There are only a few tables, perfect for groups, and since it is the restaurant’s wine cellar, the walls are lined with bottles, makes for great decoration, and much cooler and quieter than upstairs.
The only ding I have to give Il Buco is the 30+ minute wait for our table even though we had a reservation, especially since there was no comfortable places to wait as the bar was packed. But if you’re out with friends and are looking for a rustic yet comfortable restaurant with great food and excellent wine, definitely check out Il Buco. The bill came out to about $70/person including wine.
--Caroline
February 25, 2008 - Nha Trang
Monday night. Time for a "casual" (i.e., fiscally responsible) meal. Tonight we head to Nha Trang, a Vietnamese place in Chinatown [Baxter between Canal and Bayard]. Noodle soup (pho) is the reason you go to Nha Trang. I order the L9 - rice noodle w/ seafood soup (pho nam vang) - for $5.50. Ever frugal, C. orders the L4 - rice noodle w/ well-done beef soup (pho chin) - for $4.75. We also split the fried spring rolls as an appetizer (they're $4.50). We basically order the same thing every time we go here. Sometimes C. orders the regular-done beef, though. The place is bright and warm, even if it's sparsely decorated. If you're wondering where your utensils are, take a look at the metal cylinder sitting on the glass-covered table (no white linens here).
The soups arrive quickly; in fact, faster than the spring roll appetizer. Accompanying the large bowls is a plate of fresh bean sprouts, basil, and some lime wedges. First I squeeze a lime into the broth, and then I throw a liberal amount of sprouts and basil into the bowl. Then I mix and enjoy. In addition to rice noodles, the soup contains shrimp, squid, and fishcakes to pick out with your chopsticks and dip into hot sauce. In my mind, I imagine that Nha Trang has a secret cheap supplier in Chinatown, so the seafood is as fresh as the sprouts and basil. Alas, there are trade-offs to be made for a $5.50 entree.
The spring rolls arrive just as I've finished a satisfying first trip through my soup bowl. I quickly turn my attention to the spring rolls. These also come with an accompanying plate - this one holding fresh mint and lettuce leaves. Throwing caution aside, I grab a just-out-of-the-fryer spring roll with my hand and quickly drop it onto a piece of lettuce. Then I throw in a few mint leaves and wrap it all up with the lettuce leaf. The cold, wet lettuce protects my fingers from the still piping hot spring roll. I dip it into a bowl of fish sauce and take a careful first bite. It tastes so good, however, I go ahead and chomp down. Minor tongue burn is another reasonable trade-off at Nha Trang. I've never had dessert at Nha Trang. If it were a weekend night or later in the week, I probably would've ordered a Vietnamese coffee - strong pressed coffee with sweet condensed milk.
Final tally (including tip and tax) for two people - exactly $20.00
--Bobby
February 21, 2008 - Inoteca
It's Thursday night and I'm tired. It's getting close to 10 pm and I haven't done anything since getting home from work except change into sweats. The couch is feeling comfortable. I finally muster the energy to walk over to the fridge and pick two olives out of the Whole Foods container. Somehow, the snack does the trick and I commit to going out w/ C. Tonight's meal will be a neighborhood affair. Since it's Thursday, I agree to something that's a step above the Dominican place on Essex. We are going to Inoteca [Rivington & Ludlow].
As C. mentioned, we went to JLOB last night. I made her pay because she'd just landed a summer internship at an investment bank and one day she will be rich. Tonight, in the spirit of fairness, I will treat. Also, I've heard it's not "romantic" to expect your significant other to pick up the tab on back-to-back nights.
Everything starts well when the hostess tells us the wait is 20 minutes. Given the tendency to under-promise and over-deliver, I estimate our wait will be 5 to 10 minutes, tops. I'm not a fan of waiting more than 15 minutes for a table. I don't drink alcohol, which is perhaps why waiting by the bar is a much less attractive option to me. In any case, as soon as we approach the bar, two women get up and leave us their seats. One turns to tell me that the bartender is "great." She's very enthusiastic about it, but not annoying. Perhaps he's her friend, but I think she's just a friendly tourist. We don't even get to order drinks before the hostess tells us our table is ready. Sweet. To top it off, we get a corner banquette, which I think is the most sociable (and comfortable) way for 2 people to sit at dinner -- at a right angle.
Everything looks good because all of a sudden I'm quite hungry. The waiter sells us on the cod and skirt steak entree specials. We order the baby rucola salad w/ bresaola to share as an appetizer. The salad is very good. Lots of fresh lemon juice and shaved pecorino cheese. It's a hungry man's salad. The cod is good, with some sort of sea urchin puree on top. Mostly, I like it because cod is my favorite cooked fish. I only like cooked fish with white flesh. There are two great Korean stews with cod, which I will write about someday after we go to a Korean restaurant. The skirt steak is a big disappointment. It's very tough and has a lot of what C. calls "nerves". I always thought they were tendons or something like that. Also, the meat is a little cold. The positive side is that the steak is charred, which makes almost anything taste better. Also, I'm still very hungry, so I will finish what's on my plate.
I don't drink alcohol, so I will let C. write about whatever wine she ordered. I drank a Limonata. I'm always pleasantly surprised when restaurants carry it. It tastes good and you feel better than just ordering a plain coke or ginger ale. Dinner for two was about $75. Note: C. paid for chocolate chip cookies at the bodega on the way home. Since we ordered the specials I didn't really get to write about their usual dishes (panini's, cured meats, cheeses, assorted small dishes), which are good. I like Inoteca, but I can already see it being annoyingly crowded when the weather gets better.
--Bobby
February 20, 2008 - Jack's Luxury Oyster Bar
Wednesday night. In the mood for oysters. It's freezing outside so Aquagrill or Blue Ribbon is out of the question. After some intense research (ie citysearch & NY Magazine), finally discover Jack's Luxury Oyster Bar (JLOB) on 2nd Ave & 6th Street. It's by the same owners as Jewel Bako, which I went to years ago that everyone raves about but all I remember is waiting too long for sushi (no cooking involved) and walking out feeling hungry and poor...
Well, now I can recommend JLOB. It's perfect if you're in the mood for good, flavorful seafood, although don't go if you're starving or with a large group.
First impression as I enter JLOB is that it's smaller than I expected, with 5 or 6 tables in the front and an additional 10 or so seats at the wooden counter that wraps around the open kitchen (picture sushi bar but with pots and pans instead of rice bins behind the counter.) It's intimate without feeling crowded.
The food was perfect, light and flavorful. The portions are definitely on the smaller, European side (what do you expect from a Manhattan seafood restaurant with $10 - $18 dishes!) but I felt full by the end. We started off with a variety of East coast and West coast oysters. Followed by the crudo of yellowtail, which I wholeheartedly recommend. 5 small slices of sashimi-like fish, garnished with nori (thin crispy seaweed.) Excellent! The lobster with pistachios is great as well with hearty pieces of lobster, and even though the short ribs were very flavorful, they were too fatty for my taste (but then again, they are short ribs, that somewhat should be expected.) Since I like to finish my meals with something sweet, we had the smores, comes with a frozen pistachio mouse variation on the traditional American dessert but good nonetheless.
The service is impeccable, attentive without being intrusive. I would recommend making a reservation as there are limited seats. Dinner for 2, including wine, came out to around $100.
--Caroline